Now the last 24 batteries need to go in. While mounting the boxes for the front 28 batteries was relatively easy, these rear battery boxes are decidedly more tricky. The setup is like this: There are three boxes going into the rear. Boxes of 4, 8, and 12 cells.The Box of eight cells nests in front of the motor, squeezing itself between the motor and the cabin's firewall. The box of 12 sits above the motor, a fraction of an inch below the rear trunk lid, and only a foot from the left wall of the engine compartment. Finally, the box of four squeezes between the box of 12 and the right shock tower.
Like with the front battery boxes, the extra bracing going in to support the battery boxes has the added benefit of stiffening the frame. Even the battery boxes, which attach to the frame and our added structure, help the stiffness of the vehicle. Its interesting to think that when we're done, this car could be stiffer than when it was stock. Unfortunately, the added braces aren't built to be crumple zones so it could also be less safe in a collision.
Doing this setup also creates another interesting challenge. When the car is finally wired through all the batteries, the first box I install in the back is the furthest electronically from the front battery boxes. From the most positive side of the pack to the most negative, the box of 12 cells in front is most positive, then the box of 16 in the front, then the box of 4 in back, then the box of 12 in back, and finally, the box of 8 in back is the most negative. Because I have to install the box of 8 cells before the other two in the rear, I have to keep wiring in mind for the opposite end of the system. I'll have to connect the two parts in the center of the system once the box of 8 cells is finalized.